Gua sha is a traditional Chinese medicine technique that has become an increasingly popular facial massage technique, with many users claiming regular use can reduce puffiness, release facial tension and create a more sculpted, glowy appearance. But how does facial gua sha actually work, who should use it, and what kinds of results can you realistically expect from doing it at home?
When we’re told that there’s a non-invasive, inexpensive tool that can help sculpt and stimulate blood flow in your face, it’s unsurprising that most of us will immediately jump on the bandwagon. And if our social feeds are anything to go by, there’s been a shift in the last few years that has demonstrated that gua sha is now simply a standard part of most beauty routines. But facial gua sha is actually quite different from the traditional body technique used in Chinese medicine.
“Traditional gua sha can be aggressive, intentionally causing redness to clear stagnation in the body, where facial gua sha is a very gentle scraping technique to promote the movement of qi and blood flow in the face,” Emillie Thring, cosmetic acupuncturist and Chinese Medicine herbalist at OVA Acupuncture in Brisbane, tells Glamour. “Along with scraping along facial structures, we can also stimulate specific acupuncture points which have a local and systemic effect on the body. Facial gua sha is super effective at improving qi, blood and lymph flow and therefore reducing fluid build-up in the face. It is also effective at stimulating tight or underactive muscles to release tension and sculpt the face.”
The best part? Thring advises that you can expect to see an increase in vitality as well as a reduction in fluid and puffiness immediately after use. “You can also often see a reduction in fine lines as well as improvement of skin tone and texture,” she continues. “The results are longer lasting the more frequently you do it.”
As for how long and how often you should be incorporating gua sha into your at-home regime, Thring suggests daily use, as long as you’re gentle enough. “It can be a simple part of your morning or nighttime skincare routine, taking two minutes or as long as it takes you to do three to five gentle and mindful passes over your chest, décolletage, neck, jaw, cheeks, eye area and forehead.”
It’s worth noting though that technique matters, particularly if you have sensitive or acne-prone skin. For sensitive skin, Thring advises that “less is more in regards to how frequent, how many passes per session, and how much pressure.” While she recommends avoiding using it on cystic acne—and instead opting for cosmetic acupuncture and LED or facial massage to improve circulation—Thring does say gua sha is ok for acne-prone skin or mild breakouts as long as you’re cautious of spreading acne-causing bacteria, opting for the stainless steel variety and thoroughly cleaning it afterwards.