Photographer: Ellyse Anderson
Photographer: Ellyse Anderson

Should you wash your face in the morning? The experts weigh in

This is how to cleanse properly.

How do you wash your face? Humour me: most of do it every day, twice a day. Morning and night. But experts are suggesting there might be a very wrong way to be doing it – which most of us have been adopting for years.

Let's start with the obvious. Face wipes are about as good for our skin as they are for the environment. We knew that much already. So, we've been prioritising our micellar waters and our creamy cleansing balms (the new Liz Earle Cleanse & Glow Brightening Cleansing Balm is my favourite right now). Great.

Should you always double cleanse?

“While you don't need to double cleanse in the morning, doing so in the evening is a great way to achieve radiant, healthy-looking skin. The first cleanse acts as your makeup and SPF remover, melting away the day's surface impurities, while the second cleanse can actually get to work on treating the skin,” Sarah told me.

“The second cleanse it also where I like to incorporate some massage techniques to help stimulate blood flow, drain excess liquid and give yourself a really grounding moment to yourself,” – but more on that later.

Always, always remove all of your makeup

We've nodded to it above – but what skin experts and dermatologists can agree on is the importance of your night time cleanse to wash away your makeup. You should never go to sleep without doing so.

Double cleansing – first with a micellar water followed by an oil- or cream-based cleanser – is necessary for those wearing full coverage foundation or long-lasting mascara. “If you’re wearing heavy eye makeup, I love to pre-treat the delicate eye area with a dedicated, gentle remover so you aren't pulling or dragging the skin during your main cleanse,” Sarah told me.

For your second cleanse, use your hands or a clean, damp cloth to apply the cleanser of choice and gently remove any further residual makeup and debris. A Q-tip is a handy tool for cleaning around the lashline. Make sure you never ignore your neck or hairline; leaving out these parts can cause bacteria build-up and a break out of acne. (Read also, my guide to the best face washes for acne).

Can you cleanse your face with really hot water?

You’ll be forgiven for not knowing this as it’s a common misconception, but washing your face with really hot water should be avoided. No matter how nice it feels.

“Water should always be comfortably warm or tepid, never hot,” Sarah told me. “Piping hot water strips the skin of its precious, natural protective oils, leaving your barrier compromised, dry, and prone to redness or irritation. During the warmer months, try a cooler cleanse which can feel really refreshing and a great way to cool you and your skin.”

How long should I spend cleansing?

Most people are not cleansing thoroughly enough to properly remove all makeup and debris. “I recommend spending at least 30 to 60 seconds massaging your balm into the skin,” Sarah told me. “This not only gives the oils time to break down stubborn makeup and SPF, but it also stimulates lymphatic drainage and boosts microcirculation for a gorgeous, natural flush. Treat it as a mini-facial moment at the end of a long day – breathe in the calming fragrance and let the tension melt away.”

Once you're done, "always gently pat your face dry with a clean, soft towel rather than rubbing or dragging, which can cause irritation to the skin barrier. Ideally, I love to use a fresh cotton cloth for each wash to keep things  Leave your skin just a tiny bit damp, too, as this helps your subsequent tonics, serums and moisturisers lock in maximum hydration."

Add an exfoliator into the mix

Exfoliating is great for removing any dead skin cells and helps your skin to better absorb topical products. 2-3 times a week is recommended, but this may be more or less depending on how sensitive your skin is. If you’re noticing tightness, redness, irritation, or stinging during your routine, you are likely exfoliating too often.

Try to avoid exfoliants with large beads or harsh scrubbing textures as these can cause micro tears in the skin and cause permanent. Chemical exfoliants (AHAs or BHAs) will do the same job in a non-abrasive manner, but check that your cleanser doesn’t already contain them first.

Don’t forget a serum

To be used after an exfoliant and before your moisturiser, facial serums help to restore the acidic pH of the skin (to help balance the bacterial flora on the skin surface), and to deliver acid-pH antioxidants (such as vitamin C) to the skin surface.

With many options to choose from – from vitamin C serums to peptide serums – the simple choice is a hydrating serum, your best friend for giving your skin extra moisture. Best applied to damp skin to reap the rewards, hyaluronic acid is the most popular choice for its soothing, plumping, and fine line-reducing properties.

Lock it all in with a moisturiser

You’re almost there! Now that you’ve done all the hard work properly cleaning your face, be sure to top it all off with a moisturiser or night cream to keep your skin healthy and hydrated. If you’ve got sensitive skin or find that it needs a break, you might want to skip the serum step and go straight to moisturising once you’re done with cleansing.

How to choose? A combination of both personal preference for skin texture and skin types, those with oily skin will prefer a lightweight moisturiser while drier skin benefits from a thicker, richer formula. Overnight creams, which usually fall into the latter category, can be a great way of soothing and healing your skin while you sleep.

This story originally appeared in glamourmagazine.co.uk