How to hydrate skin and get a healthy glow – according to the experts
Hydration station.
Another sign, says Thomas, is the appearance of fine, crepey lines that become more visible when you move your face but seem to disappear once skin is properly hydrated. "That's transepidermal water loss (TEWL), not ageing," she explains.
The good news? "Dehydrated skin responds well to the right interventions," assures Russell-Akselberg. Ahead, both experts share how to hydrate skin, strengthen the skin barrier and restore a healthy glow.
How can I deeply hydrate my skin?
If your skin constantly feels tight despite using moisturiser, the issue may not be a lack of product but a lack of water. "Hydrating the skin means adding water, whereas moisturising means preventing that water from escaping," explains Russell-Akselberg. "Think of it this way: hydration fills the tank; moisturising puts the lid on."
For this reason, both experts recommend combining humectants, which attract water into the skin, with barrier-supporting moisturisers that help lock it in. "If you hydrate without moisturising, the water evaporates. If you moisturise without hydrating, you're just putting a lid on an empty pot," says Thomas. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin can help draw water into the skin, while ceramides and other emollients help prevent moisture loss.
How you apply your products matters, too. "Humectants need a water source to draw from, and moisturisers need something to seal in," says Russell-Akselberg. Her advice? Apply hydrating serums to slightly damp skin before following with a moisturiser. Thomas agrees, adding that "order is key" and that applying hydrators to damp skin gives ingredients immediate water to bind to.
If you only make a few changes to your skincare routine, keep them simple. Swap harsh cleansers for gentler formulas, avoid over-exfoliating and make sure you're sealing hydration into the skin rather than relying on a serum alone. “Most people are scrubbing away the very protection they need to keep their skin healthy and hydrated. Light regular exfoliation is perfect,” says Thomas.
Are you accidentally dehydrating your skin?
While ingredients such as retinol, AHAs and BHAs can all be beneficial, overusing them can compromise the skin barrier, making it harder for skin to retain moisture. "You cannot hydrate the skin with a barrier that you are constantly compromising," warns Thomas.
And it's not just active ingredients that can cause issues. According to Russell-Akselberg, everyday habits such as using harsh cleansers, spending time in air-conditioned or centrally heated environments and washing your face with hot water can all contribute to dehydration. "Hot showers feel wonderful but strip the skin's natural oils and disrupt the barrier that keeps water locked in," she explains. Her advice? Swap steaming-hot water for lukewarm and opt for a gentle cleanser that won't leave skin feeling tight or squeaky clean.
Our favourite gentle cleansers leave skin feeling comfortable and hydrated
Cellis Everyday Cleansing Gelée
Medik8 Total Moisture Daily Cleansing Gel
Another habit many people don't associate with hydration is skipping SPF. "UV exposure degrades the skin barrier and accelerates TEWL, meaning your skin literally loses water faster," says Russell-Akselberg. "Daily SPF is as much a hydration step as it is a protection one."
These are our top picks for daily SPF
Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protect Age-Defying Moisturiser with SPF 50+
La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid Non-Perfumed Suncream SPF50+
Which skincare ingredients actually hydrate skin?
Hyaluronic acid is often hailed as the gold standard for hydrated skin, but it's far from the only skincare ingredient worth knowing about. The experts share their go-to picks…
Hyaluronic acid: A humectant that draws water into the skin, helping it to appear plumper and more hydrated. "It can hold up to a thousand times its weight in moisture," says Russell-Akselberg.
Glycerin: Thomas describes glycerin as the "workhorse" of the hydration world, thanks to its ability to attract and retain water. "It's one of the most reliable, skin-compatible humectants we have," she explains.
Ceramides: Both experts are strong advocates of ceramides, which help strengthen the skin barrier and reduce water loss. "If the barrier is intact, the skin is naturally better at staying hydrated," says Thomas.
Niacinamide: Russell-Akselberg ranks vitamin B3 among her top hydration ingredients thanks to its ability to stimulate the skin's natural ceramide production. "It's topping up hydration as well as improving the skin barrier's ability to hold onto water long-term," she explains.
Squalane and urea: Looking for an underrated hydration hero? Thomas recommends urea, which she describes as a "smart hydrator", while Russell-Akselberg is a fan of squalane for its ability to reinforce the skin barrier without feeling heavy or greasy.
As for what to avoid, Thomas says high-strength retinoids, foaming cleansers with harsh sulphates or acids are the quickest way to dehydrate the skin. “It’s not that these ingredients are 'bad,' but when the skin is already tight and irritated, they become aggressive rather than renewing.”
Can you hydrate skin from the inside out?
"The most common mistake I see is people drinking more water and hoping that alone will fix things," says Russell-Akselberg. "Hydration from the inside matters, but your skin also needs the right topical support to hold onto that water."
Diet and lifestyle habits can also influence how well skin retains moisture. According to Russell-Akselberg, high sugar intake, processed foods, insufficient healthy fats and excess alcohol can all affect the skin's ability to stay hydrated from the inside out. Stress and poor sleep may play a role too, as both can compromise barrier function and make skin more prone to moisture loss.
To support hydration from within, Russell-Akselberg recommends prioritising healthy fats such as nuts, seeds, avocados and oily fish. Combined with a barrier-supporting skincare routine, these simple habits can go a long way towards keeping skin healthy, hydrated and glowing.
Shop some of our favourite skin hydrators below
Curél Deep Moisture Spray
Anua 7 Rice Ceramide Hydrating Barrier Serum
Dr David Jack Skin Cushion Pro-Lipid Recovery Cream
CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Skin Design London Designer Balm
L'Oréal Paris L'Oréal Paris Revitalift 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Glow Replenishing Rice Milk
Charlotte Tilbury Instant Magic Facial Dry Sheet Mask
Mimétique Skin Cloud Baume Demaquillant
SkinCeuticals Hyaluronic Acid Intensifier Multi-Glycan
This story originally appeared in glamourmagazine.co.uk