Does your skin really need a spring clean? We asked some experts
The urge to spring clean, well, everything, is real. But does your skincare routine really need that much of an overhaul?
There really ought to be some kind of ancient German phrase for the feeling when the warmer days of spring beckon after a long, cold winter. Or perhaps it’s merely ‘promise.’ If, like many (most?) of us you’ve spent the dark days of winter hibernating and/or sitting too close to the heater and having showers that are far too hot you’re not alone.
The promise of spring then can leave us wanting to slough away the layers, both metaphorically and physically. This includes our skincare regimes. However Melanie Grant, the go-to facialist for everyone from Victoria Beckham to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and owner of the eponymous skincare salons in Sydney, Melbourne, LA, New York and London, says not to get too overzealous.
“Spring cleaning suggests stripping everything back and starting again, which is the wrong approach for skin,” she cautions. As Grant points out, our skin takes on quite a lot during the winter months, what with the cold air, indoor heating and hot showers which can all contribute to water loss through the skin’s barrier, stripping it of surface lipids that are important for retaining moisture. What’s more, the rich, winter-focused skin remedies such as richer creams we might turn to can, points out Grant, leave our skin feeling a little lacklustre at the changing of the seasons too.
“By the end of August most complexions are simply depleted,” she says. “We layer on richer creams and exfoliate less, so dead cells sit on the surface longer than they should. That is what you are seeing when skin looks dull, feels tight or becomes congested. Coming into spring I recommend barrier repair first, then some considered resurfacing. In that order.”
A spring update needn't be anything drastic. Grant says to start with the basics. This means first looking at your skin - no make-up, in daylight and with a good mirror - for signs of redness, sensitivity, texture and congestion. “Most people add products to solve a problem they haven't actually defined, which is how routines become long and ineffective,” says Grant of the importance of understanding what your skin actually needs. “Start focusing on repair. If the barrier is compromised, acids and retinoids will only make things worse. A gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum, an appropriate moisturiser and daily SPF put skin in condition to be resurfaced,” she says.
When it comes to adding an exfoliant to work on those layers, Grant says a gentle acid option, two to three times per week can often be sufficient. A professional enzyme or AHA peel could be a worthwhile spring cleaning splurge. As for other spring season swaps, Grant suggests swapping a balm cleanser for a gel and heavier creams for more lightweight or gel formulations. Now is not the time for anything too dramatic in-salon either, she says - the winter months are the time for lasers or deep peels.
Lacey Lopez, senior dermal therapist at Sydney-based The Woollahra Clinic, says spring - that in-between season - can also be the time for rejuvenation post the harshness of winter and in readyment for more UV exposure in the warmer months ahead. "Spring is the perfect time to reset your skin after the colder months. Winter can leave skin feeling dehydrated, dull and congested due to cooler temperatures, indoor heating and a buildup of dead skin cells.
"The best way to restore a healthy glow is to focus on skin renewal and collagen stimulation," she says, advising investing in a professional assessment and a personalised skincare regime with a focus on gentle exfoliation and antioxidants such as vitamin C. "Spring is the ideal time to repair winter damage, prepare your skin for increased UV exposure and invest in long-term skin health before summer arrives," she says.
A spring recalibration rather than reset is something that Dr Joseph Hkeik, aesthetic physician and Founder of Saint Clinic group, believes in too. "Spring-cleaning your skin isn't about starting over. It's about reassessing what your skin actually needs after winter and cutting what no longer serves it,” he says. “Through winter, richer creams and heavier oils support a compromised barrier. As temperatures rise, I advise patients to lighten these layers, especially if skin is oily, congested or breakout-prone, while still protecting the barrier,” he says.
As with all skincare regimes, Dr Hkeik says being consistent is the most important thing. “Resist adding multiple new actives at once. Consistency wins: gentle cleansing, hydration, daily broad-spectrum SPF. If you exfoliate, ease in rather than resetting the barrier,” he says. Also, he adds, ‘spring clean’ your skin with intention. “The best seasonal refresh is a considered one. Healthy skin doesn't come from doing more. It comes from knowing when to edit, when to restore, and when to ask for professional guidance,” he says.
FIVE PRODUCTS FOR A SPRING RESET
Looking to recalibrate your skincare regime in the warmer months? Here are some products to try.
GENTLE CLEANSER
The Ordinary Squalane cleanser
GEL MOISTURISER
Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturising Gel
EXFOLIANT
Alpha H Liquid Gold Exfoliating Treatment
EYE MASKS
Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Masks